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appetizer

TriColor Gazpacho: Deconstructed

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Light, garden fresh gazpacho is a favorite of so many, but for me the texture has always been a deterrent.  Not to be negative, but it always felt too much like pureed salsa and I get stuck on that. The idea of eating fresher than fresh vegetables is so wonderful, but the mushiness just left me feeling, meh.

So after thinking about it, I decided that what I found lacking was the soupy part of this cold soup, and why not have chunks of the tomatoes for a toothsome texture? And THEN! like a confirmation from the heavens, I picked up the latest special edition of Gourmet magazine, Easy Dinners. Now don’t you know, they have exactly the type of soup that I was thinking of! Though theirs is tomatillo based and mine has none, the concept is the same.

The broth aspect of the soup is made in the traditional manor of classic gazpacho, fresh vegetables are pureed to smoothness, but in my version the solids are removed from the liquid, which has drawn out all the essence of the vegetables leaving behind a broth that is incredibly rich in flavor. After that it’s just the matter of chopping up the rest of the vegetables and combining it all together.

This week at the market I was so thrilled to see so many varieties of tomatoes so early in the season, and the yellow, orange and red tomatoes are so beautiful together. So the base is comprised of yellow tomatoes, and the toss ins are orange and red.

My best advice when making this soup is to allow the added in veg to marinate in the base awhile before serving (an hour or two?)- and then maybe toss a few fresh bits on top for brightness of color. Another word of advice is to balance the acidity well. Tomatoes already have quite a bit of acid before adding some vinegar, and different varieties and levels of ripeness will vary too. So to keep your soup from tasting like a bowl of salad dressing, go easy with the vinegar at first and ease on up to balance. If you go too far, a minute pinch of sugar will bring you back down.

*And a bonus* The solids that are left after the straining are delicious and wonderful on their own. I used mine as a garnish on tostadas, but would also be great folded into filling for enchiladas for instance. It’s all the great flavor without the juice running down your arm (not that that’s a bad thing).

Deconstructed Gazpacho
serves 4
 
1.5# yellow tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# orange tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# red tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5 medium sized white onion, chopped and divided
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
1 large garlic clove, chopped
2T red wine vinegar (adjust to taste)
.5c water
2T olive oil
.5c chopped cilantro
 
In a blender, puree half of the yellow tomatoes, half the onion, half the jalapeño, the garlic and vinegar- until smooth.
 
Strain through a medium mesh sieve and press the solids to extract all the juice. Discard the solids.
 
Stir in the remaining tomatoes and onion. Add water, oil and salt and vinegar to taste.
 
Chill until cold, adding chopped cilantro right before serving.
 
Enjoy!
 

Saffron Potato Croquettes With Soft Boiled Quail Eggs

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I have returned from Gosling Pond, laden with incredible treats! I have quail eggs, hen eggs, and a gorgeous piece of free range lamb roast- that are all begging for attention.
Sadly-devastatingly sadly- I forgot to bring the CF card for my camera (always doing that, *sigh*). As a result I had to fall back on my iPhone to take photos- which I promise I will share with you soon. They will take a little photoshopping- so please be patient. I will also promise a return visit this summer when everything is in full bloom and I have my proper equipment.
In the meantime I will start you out here with a little delight I made this morning using a couple of the quail eggs. Kate’s 4 new quail, Morton, Malady, Maeve and Matilda have not yet matured enough to start laying (well, Morton never will, obviously), though they should start any day now.  These eggs are from the dearly beloved and recently passed Pat, who started Kate’s craze.
I’ve seen plenty of quail eggs before, and though they never cease to amaze me, there is something magical about the fact that PAT made these. Kate’s baby did that! And so, they are even more gorgeous to behold.
Since the eggs are so small and delicate, and SO special, I wanted to make something that celebrated that- and so here we go. I infused some oil with a hearty chunk of garlic and saffron, and then tossed that into mashed potatoes. I carefully made them into tiny patties and pan fried them in the oil that remained behind in the pan.
The quail eggs were fun. I simmered them for a mere 90 seconds and they were soft boiled to perfection. They’re so teeny tiny to peel, but so worth it.
It’s a delicate and earthy tate profile, fit for a princess. I hope you enjoy!
 
Saffron Potato Croquettes with Soft Boiled Quail Eggs
6 servings
 
12 beautiful fresh quail eggs
2c mashed potatoes
1 large or two medium cloves of garlic, minced
2 hearty pinches of saffron threads
oil for frying
 
Place 2-3T of mild oil in a small frying pan and gently warm
 
Add garlic and saffron and gently cook to draw out the flavors of both aromatics.
 
Toss into mashed potatoes and stir, adding salt to taste. Reserve oil laced pan to the side.
 
With hands take about 2T of mashed potatoes and roll into a ball and pat into a disk-make 12.
 
Warm oil in pan and gently fry croquettes, adding more oil if needed.
 
In small saucepan bring water to boil. Lower to a high simmer and submerge quail eggs. 
 
With an eye on the second hand, boil gently for 90 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon and run under cold water.
 
Gently peel eggs and serve on the croquettes. 
 
You may poach the eggs in advance and hold in cool water. Before serving warm for a quick minute in simmering water.

Seeded Rosemary Fig Crackers

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I’ve become a little cracker crazy. Crackers and cheese have always been a weakness of mine, so it’s no real surprise. I’m just having a grand time making different versions of different types. It’s just insane how quick and easy they are to make (ok the matzoh were a little bit of work), but look how beautiful these are!
My “herb garden” that I have growing in a window box on my sill is flourishing quite remarkably well. So much, in fact, that I have to trim it back (read: whack it back) every few days. Such things as Mint and Lemon Verbena are slipping into ice tea glasses on a whim- delightful!
In amongst my thyme and lemon balm, and the aforementioned mint and lemon verbena, there is a rough tuft of rosemary- also in need of some pruning. So that became the impetus here.
But the real impetus is the preparations for the weekend. I’m heading out of the city tomorrow to go visit my dear friend Kate Kennedy at her B&B Gosling Pond up in Kenoza Lake, NY. It’s an easy drive out of town to her property of 6 acres, a lake and her brood of animals. Kate just adopted 4 young quail to replace her beloved Pat, who passed recently, and I can’t wait to meet them. They are quite the mascots and Kate has a beautiful passion for them.
Kate is an amazing designer and artist and a friend of mine for more years than either of us would probably like to admit. She was definitely a big supporter of my early days in the East Village when I was getting my cake business up and running. It’s exciting to see her branch out of the city (well she’s been there for awhile now) and get into this new venture.
I also love what Kate is doing with the B&B by supporting local agriculture and local food artisans. Eggs from one friend down the road along with breads and baked goods from another, are a part of her breakfast fare. She has people come from far and wide to visit with her, along with a few celebs that need discreet getaways.
I promise to take photos over the weekend and share.
So all this was a roundabout way to say that I am putting together a little hostess bag for Kate and my seedy crackers will fit right in. I taste tested them, as shown above, with some Mangego and a drizzle of truffled honey, and creamed goat cheese with sliced strawberries.  The crackers have a great texture from the seeds, and the fig give it a little chewiness and sweetness. Really good.
Seeded Rosemary Fig Crackers
made 100 slices for me
 
2.25c AP flour
2t baking soda
.5 t salt
.5c honey or agave
2c buttermilk
1.5c chopped dried figs
.5c pistachio nuts
.5c pumpkin seeds
.25c flax seeds
2T fresh chopped Rosemary
 
Preheat oven to 350˚ and grease 2 3×8″ loaf pans
 
In medium bowl combine buttermilk and honey. Warm slightly in microwave for 1 minute to melt honey into buttermilk
 
In large bowl combine flour, soda, salt and the nuts- leave the figs aside for a moment.
 
Stir in the buttermilk and give a quick few strokes- then toss in the figs. The acid in the buttermilk and the backing soda will react. It’s important not to over mix here, just mix until incorporated.
 
Carefully spoon into baking pans and bake approx 30 mins until golden and tight to the touch.
 
Allow to cool completely and reduce oven temp to 275˚
 
With a fine serrated knife slice the loaves into thiiiiiin slices and place on cookie sheet. No need to grease the sheet.
 
Toast in the oven for approx 15 mins then flip over for another 5. Keep an eye on this since the thickness of the slices will determine the actual time.
 
Store in an airtight container until ready to serve.