A Stack of Dishes

Something good is cooking...

appetizer

Raclette: I heart Stinky Cheese!

by

The first time I had raclette was at the home of my friends Jeff and Jodie Morgan years ago when they lived out on the North Fork of Long Island. Jeff was a musician then that was just breaking into the wine business. Jody was a homemaker and we were having children in tandem and sharing the ins and out of potty training methodology. Jeff then went on to write about wine for the Wine Spectator and moved the family out to California and was the West Coast Editor for a long time. He is now the owner of Covenant Wines making kosher wines that are sure to be superb. There was a rose too, but I’m not up to date on that.

Jeff had lived in France at some point and the influence permeated their lifestyle. Lazy Sunday afternoons we played Jacques a dit… (Simon says) on the lawn and ate sardines stuffed with herbs right off the grill. Together Jeff and Jody were great cooks and great hosts and it was always delightful spending time with them. I pretty much always came away learning something new, the least of which was how to enjoy raclette.

The name Raclette comes from the French racler-to scrape. Traditionally a large wheel of this pungent semi soft cheese is held to the wood burning fire and the melted cheese scraped onto the waiting plate. This luscious cheese is served with boiled potatoes and cornichons or other pickled vegetables. Cured meats are also often served, but I never had it that way. One is tempted to compare this to fondue, but I would not make the comparison- they are nothing alike.

I cannot begin to tell you the blissful taste of the earthy pungent cheese with the doughy potato and the snap of the pickle. It was one of those taste moments that shock the senses into a different echelon. The reason is that it doesn’t sound all that amazing, but together it is spectacular.

Being a little remiss of a wood burning fireplace in Manhattan, I melt my cheese right onto plates that I put into a warm oven. It only takes a few minutes to melt the cheese and the hot plate maintains the melty loveliness during consumption. Just take care to handle the plate and mind the table top and not burn yourself or the veneer. There are table top grills that are the modern convenience of the day, but I’ve not tried them and prefer this basic and homey method.

This is hearty Winter fare and great to serve among a small group with one large plate in the middle of the table. My preferred wine of choice with Raclette is a flowery Reisling and the one time an off dry is enjoyable, or if you’re not a Reisling fan (and you will be once you have a good one), an aromatic Viognier or Pinot Gris is also delightful.

Warm Mushrooms Over Smoked Gouda Polenta

by

On the chillier days I prefer to serve a warm snack when friends come for a drink. As coats and hats and gloves are doffed and tucked away, the smell of sauteed onions and mushrooms greets them to let them know that as they settle into cushions and chairs that the belly will be rewarded for making the trek out in the cold.

Grilled polenta is a wonderful comfort food that is easily prepared ahead of time and and warmed when guests arrive. I stuffed mine this time with a smokey Gouda to give it some depth and richness. This made a perfect pairing to the earthy topping.

The portion is tapas size- about 3 inches square- which is a lovely snack when sipping on a soft round white such as Chardonnay or a robust Sauvignon Blanc. Not a meal but a hearty small plate of warm comforting goodness.

Smoked Gouda Polenta Squares with Shiitake Mushrooms
serves 6-8
 
 
8oz polenta
2 oz Smoked Gouda, grated
 
2 medium brown onions, sliced thin
1# Shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and sliced
2 cloves garlic
.5 c white wine
2T butter
1T Thyme 
 
Prepare polenta by heating 4.5 c of water to boiling. Add 2t salt to water and then with a whisk slowly pour in the cornmeal while stirring the water to prevent lumps. On low cook until all water is evaporated, about 5 mins.
 
My trick is I make my polenta in my rice cooker. It warms and cooks the polenta nice and slowly, reduces splatters around the stove, doesn’t scorch and is easy to clean up.
 
Prepare a 9″ square pan with either cooking spray or line with plastic wrap.
 
Spread half the polenta evenly into the bottom of the pan, disperse cheese evenly, and then layer the rest of the polenta on top. Cover with a layer of plastic wrap and smooth out the top by pressing with fingers to get it as level and even as possible.
 
The polenta can be made well in advance (the night before?) or it should at least be left to cool and set for an hour or so.
 
In medium frying pan over medium low heat, melt the butter and add the onions. Slowly cook the onions until they are golden, taking care not to scorch them. Add the garlic and the mushrooms and sautee for 2 mins. 
 
Toss in the thyme and white wine and cook until the wine is evaporated. S&P to taste.
 
To serve cut the polenta into neat squares and grill. Spoon warm mushrooms over the top

Balsamic Poached Pear and Goat Brie Bites

by

Pears are poached in balsamic vinegar and cracked pepper

My move is now planned and the boxes are beginning to get packed. Not only has this not deterred me from cooking, but by a quirk has increased my inspiration. The crazy thing is as I dig into my cupboards and cabinets I’m finding pans and tools and platters and things that I had forgotten were in there.

I have been blessed with an inordinate amount of storage space and an insatiable appetite for china and gadgets. Years ago, long before Martha Stewart Magazine had their big studio and kitchen(s), they would sometimes shoot in my loft. I had ovens, refrigeration and counters galore, but what I also had was stuff. As you know the stylists on the magazine are some of the best out there, and also the most nit picky. Often when some prop was in need, or just not right, I would fling open my cabinet doors and pull out more options. The look on people’s faces is always priceless. I REALLY have stuff!
So now, all my memories are spilling out of the dark corners of the platter cabinet (yes, I have an entire 30″ x 48″” cabinet filled to the brim with only platters). It’s been a wonderful time.
This quick and lovely hors d’oeuvres is one of my great fall backs. The pears are also wonderful with a nice thin slice of pate as well. Definitely use a bread toast here to catch the gorgeous balsamic sauce. Crackers won’t cut it.
I usually make these right on the spot which means that they get gobbled up as fast as I can put them down on the platter.
Balsamic Poached Pears w Black Pepper and Brie Toasts
 
serves 12
 
3T apple cider vinegar
2T balsamic vinegar
2T turbinado sugar
cracked fresh black pepper
2 barely ripe pears, peeled and sliced thin
6oz Goat Brie
baguette or sourdough bread for toasts
 
Combine vinegars, sugar and pepper in a small saucepan and warm allowing the sugar to melt.
 
Add the pears and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let the pears stand in the poaching liquid for 1 hr.
 
Gently remove pears and bring remaining sauce to a low boil and slightly reduce.
 
Toast up your bread and have on the ready. Place a pear slice or two onto the bread and top with a small wedge of the brie.
 
Warm in the oven to just melt the brie. Drizzle with the reserved balsamic sauce and serve.