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appetizer

Easy Entertaining: Feta spread with Minted Tomato Salad

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Lazy Sunday afternoons are my favorite time to gather people together. I have some sweet memories of when I was a kid and my parents would sometimes pack up my brother and me and head over to a friends house. My Father was in the antique business for the better part of my growing up, and a lot of his friends were in the business as well. In those days the wives were housewives and stayed home and watched Julia Child in the afternoon and then prepared elaborate meals for the evening. Entertaining was a wife’s domain and her pride. Putting out a luscious spread was their art and career. Those were the type of homes that we would visit.
You could count on walking into homes that smelled of good coffee, where The New York Times was strewn about, and opera or classical music played in the background. On the cocktail table would be delights, such as cheeses or pastries, to nibble on while the grown ups chatted. I’ve always loved stinky cheeses and crusty breads, and to lay on couches and eavesdrop on my Father’s business chats with his friends was heaven. I’ve always loved business talk and I learned quite a bit from nestling in the corner of that couch while the other kids ran around the yard. I could play at home all I wanted, but I loved the language and the calculations and the camaraderie that the adults shared.
Of course this would later manifest in my going into my own businesses, and as a result it felt as natural as falling off a log.
Though when it comes to entertaining, I have learned that the less fussing the better. I mean, sure, fuss away before guests arrive, but once the gathering has begun, I like to visit and relax. I often keep things at the ready too. To look in my cupboard or freezer you would think that I had a family of 8 (and don’t think I haven’t heard a word or two about it), but at the drop of a hat, I can pull out this and that and make a meal or snack- AND make Julia proud.
One quick and wonderful snack is this one above, which is also one of those delightful combinations that is greater than the sum of it’s parts. The spread is feta cheese that is whipped into submission with a little milk and garlic then laced with the best olive oil in the house. The tomatoes are simply tossed with a little oil and vinegar, but it’s the fresh hit of mint that sets this all into balance. If tomatoes are not available, cucumbers or some other juicy vegetable can work to offset the saltiness of the feta.
Lastly, flat bread is brushed with some oil and toasted. This really brings this all to life. A crunchy bread giving way to a soft inside is the perfect platform for this dish. Pile up some prosciutto to add to the party and then sit back and relax.

Testing Pie Crusts: Is ICE COLD necessary?

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hand_pie
The fine art of making pastry doughs has always been a bit of a mystery to me. Sure, I’ve baked countless cakes (thousands), but pastry is a whole ‘nother thang. What also has always alluded me was how something so basic can turn out so differently so easily. Flour, butter, salt and water? a snap right?
I once watched an episode of Martha Stewart Living years ago. She spoke in religious tones about how her Polish Mother kept everything ice cold which was sure to be the path to righteous flaky crust. However, I did all that- chilled the flour, kept the water in ice cubed suspension and worked so fast it raised my adrenaline levels through the roof. It was a “good thing” and I was leaving no holds barred.
The result was ok, but not ethereal. So what’s up with that?
As is often the case in my life, I got a little buggy about figuring this all out. I decided to go on a quest and pulled out and up several different recipes and methods for making pie/tart dough.
What was fascinating to me was the depth and breadth of the different recipes. I am sure some degreed Pastry Master can explain the different qualities and uses for the different types. Sure, sweetened for one thing, more rustic for another, delicateness for one, durability for another, but in the end… for me… let’s just get one our two down and then work out specific uses. There was something in the method, I would sort out the madness later.
So after some perusal I came up with two different types/styles to try. One was classic cold cold cold from Tartine. The second used softened butter and milk- something I had never heard of before- out of Sarabeth’s new cookbook.
Both used the basic same ingredients- with the milk as an exception. But no cream cheese, or other fats, and no mixture of flours or eggs. Tartine actually gave weights as well as standard measurements. I opted to weigh everything to be scientific about it. Also, to better incorporate the butter I grated the cold butter onto a plate and then onto a scale. This just makes the first stage of cutting the butter into the flour faster and some say better.
 
Tartine: Flaky Tart Dough
 
1tsp salt
2/3 c water, very cold
3c +2T ap flour
1c + 5T sweet butter, very cold
 
Combine dry ingredients in a food processor. Add the butter and process until pea sized crumbs evolve. Dribble in the water until the mass comes together and forms a ball.
 
Remove from bowl and knead a few times. Then shape into 2 discs for a double crust, one one for a large tart. Wrap in plastic and chill 2 hrs or overnight
 
(please refer to the cookbook for more extensive and detailed directions)
 
 




Sarabeth’s Tender Pie Dough
She attributes this recipe to Wendy and Michael London of Mrs. London’s Bakery and Cafe in Saratoga Springs. She states: “not especially flaky”
 
1 3/4 sticks butter, (14 T), cool room temp, in pieces
1/3 c whole milk- she makes no specifications but cold milk just seizes up the butter, so I used cool milk- meaning slightly colder than room temp.
2.5 c AP flour
4t superfine sugar (I omitted)
1/4 salt
 
Beat the butter in a stand mixer with paddle attachment. Dribble in milk and beat to a butter cream consistency.
Add flour gradually and mix until it comes together. Turn out of the bowl and knead a few turns until smooth. Wrap in plastic and chill 30 mins to 1 hr.
 
(please refer to cookbook for more extensive and detailed directions)
And here are the results. First off, I made handpies just for fun and to facilitate tasting. I filled them with this and that which was in my fridge. OK, if you must know: the round pies had sauteed spinach and potatoes with thyme, ricotta and chicken. The half moon pies had ricotta, goat cheese and prosciutto.
I glazed them with an egg yolk/milk mixture and in the photo above I sprinkled some grated Parmesan on top.
The Tartine dough was indeed flakier, and made a delightful crispy crunchy sound when you bit into it. However, the Sarabeth’s version was not far off. I really though it would be a dense, tough crust, not really- not so much.
So why is that? Here is what I truly think: and before I say so I will put out the caveat that I am no expert on this- so please feel free to pipe up and add any insight if you can.
I think the real finesse is in the bringing together of the dough. Yes, you don’t want to overhandle the dough, BUT, you do need to assure thorough incorporation. I think the real devil is the gluten in the flour, which you need to work some up, but not too much. You can give it an inch, but not a mile.
For me this is similar to biscuit/scone making. I was always SO terrified to over work the dough that I under did it. I found when I kneaded just a stroke or two more, it resulted in a beautiful, flaky and tender treat.
And this is a feel thing. To explain: the dough at first is in disarray, trying to pull together is fragments and find consistency. Once managed, it then starts to pull back, it resists. You can feel a slight spring or tightness in the dough. That’s the point that works (for me).
I would love to hear others’ insights.

Thai Spring Rolls with Fire-y Chicken

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spring roll, thai spring roll
Crunchy Spicy Minty Tangy Deliciousness
Spring rolls used to be too daunting for me to consider making. Those papery skins looked too fragile and tricky to work with. At the beginning of my cake career (ca. 1987) I shared a kitchen with a caterer who made the spring rolls regularly. One of the beauties of sharing that space was being able to peek over shoulders and learn about things I knew little about.
Their method for dampening the rice paper was to use a spray bottle with fresh water. There is a lot of control in the amount of moisture with this method, and they could really hustle through the piles of rolls that they needed to make. I’ve never been able to keep such a dedicated bottle in my house, and so afraid that some cleaner might have snuck in by one of my kitchen staff, so I revert to the “dip method”, which is to slide the sheet into a bowl of cool water and out immediately.
The sheet will still be stiff at first, but by the time I load it up, it’s soft enough to roll. I can work 2 at a time if I’m feeling swift, but I recommend not rushing it as torn rolls are frustrating and a sad sad thing….
For this recipe I make my own ground chicken. It’s super easy to do, and into the mix I put in chilies, garlic and onion. It takes two seconds in the cuisinart and I love the slight green tint the chilies give to the meat. Since I typically purchase chicken breasts in bulk and have them portioned out in the freezer, I can defrost and whip these up whenever the mood strikes. Actually, truth be told, it’s more like when I have mint and cilantro in the fridge that I get the inspiration to make these jewels.
You can serve these with any kind of Asian sauce, but I prefer my Soi 5 Chili Sauce. When my fiancee and I were in Chiang Mai last, my favorite place to eat was an outdoor Gai Yang place. You could spot the place a block away from the billowing fragrant smoke of the grilling chicken, which they did right on the sidewalk. You have to walk past the grill master to get into the rustic restaurant that is filled with locals all day long. With side the chicken is served this rocket hot and amazing chili sauce (and Som Tom and sticky rice, ohhhhh). Since they make it there themselves I tried to get the recipe, but I was Thai-politely told that regrettably they could not share it. After returning home I put to task recreating the sweet tangy and super spicy sauce. I will have to return to Soi 5 (Fifth Street) to compare, but I think my version is damn close.
Thai Spring Rolls with Fire-y Chicken
 
1# Chicken breast- feel free to substitute pork, shrimp or chicken thighs here, cut into small chunks
1 small white onion minced
3 cloves garlic, rough chopped
Thai chilies to taste is preferred, or jalepenos which I used here (1), rough chopped
rice paper wrappers
cucumber sliced thinly into long strips
red onion, french sliced thinly
fresh mint leaves
fresh cilantro leaves
fresh lime
Soi 5 Chili Sauce (recipe coming soon)
 
In a food processor place the onion, garlic and chilies and give a whir to mince more finely. 
 
Add chicken and pulse until uniformly incorporated and chicken is thoroughly minced.
 
Heat frying pan to medium high. With a small amount of oil in the pan cook the chicken mixture until just cooked through, just a few minutes. You may add some S&P if you like here. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
 
In a bowl of cool water dip the rice paper wrapper and lay on cutting board. Working quickly, on the bottom half of the round first lay the mint leaves nicely, as they will show through the paper.
 
Then lay down a row of cucumber, cilantro, red onion and a few tablespoons of the chicken mixture, then spritz with a hit of lime.
 
With the finesse of a Thai master, roll up the same as you would an egg roll. Try to roll as tightly as you can without tearing the paper. The paper may be sticky. Dipping fingers into water will make it easier to handle. Carefully place the rolls onto a tray lined with parchment or wax paper. As they sit they will dry and become less tacky to the touch.
 
Serve and eat as soon as possible. They are the best fresh. Or cover in the fridge for up to a half a day. If the paper dries out you can refresh with a little cool water.
 
I have made these with several friends and family over the years. The first roll or two is typically pretty frightful looking- though just as delicious. It only takes a little practice to get tight pretty rolls. I say eat the first once right off while standing over the board. It will give you the sustenance and incentive to become Master roller.