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TriColor Gazpacho: Deconstructed

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Light, garden fresh gazpacho is a favorite of so many, but for me the texture has always been a deterrent.  Not to be negative, but it always felt too much like pureed salsa and I get stuck on that. The idea of eating fresher than fresh vegetables is so wonderful, but the mushiness just left me feeling, meh.

So after thinking about it, I decided that what I found lacking was the soupy part of this cold soup, and why not have chunks of the tomatoes for a toothsome texture? And THEN! like a confirmation from the heavens, I picked up the latest special edition of Gourmet magazine, Easy Dinners. Now don’t you know, they have exactly the type of soup that I was thinking of! Though theirs is tomatillo based and mine has none, the concept is the same.

The broth aspect of the soup is made in the traditional manor of classic gazpacho, fresh vegetables are pureed to smoothness, but in my version the solids are removed from the liquid, which has drawn out all the essence of the vegetables leaving behind a broth that is incredibly rich in flavor. After that it’s just the matter of chopping up the rest of the vegetables and combining it all together.

This week at the market I was so thrilled to see so many varieties of tomatoes so early in the season, and the yellow, orange and red tomatoes are so beautiful together. So the base is comprised of yellow tomatoes, and the toss ins are orange and red.

My best advice when making this soup is to allow the added in veg to marinate in the base awhile before serving (an hour or two?)- and then maybe toss a few fresh bits on top for brightness of color. Another word of advice is to balance the acidity well. Tomatoes already have quite a bit of acid before adding some vinegar, and different varieties and levels of ripeness will vary too. So to keep your soup from tasting like a bowl of salad dressing, go easy with the vinegar at first and ease on up to balance. If you go too far, a minute pinch of sugar will bring you back down.

*And a bonus* The solids that are left after the straining are delicious and wonderful on their own. I used mine as a garnish on tostadas, but would also be great folded into filling for enchiladas for instance. It’s all the great flavor without the juice running down your arm (not that that’s a bad thing).

Deconstructed Gazpacho
serves 4
 
1.5# yellow tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# orange tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# red tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5 medium sized white onion, chopped and divided
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
1 large garlic clove, chopped
2T red wine vinegar (adjust to taste)
.5c water
2T olive oil
.5c chopped cilantro
 
In a blender, puree half of the yellow tomatoes, half the onion, half the jalapeño, the garlic and vinegar- until smooth.
 
Strain through a medium mesh sieve and press the solids to extract all the juice. Discard the solids.
 
Stir in the remaining tomatoes and onion. Add water, oil and salt and vinegar to taste.
 
Chill until cold, adding chopped cilantro right before serving.
 
Enjoy!
 

Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint

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Ceviche has never been lacking in descriptives such as “light” or “delicate” but this version is so refreshing it will surprise you.

I spent some time with a good friend of mine Carol on Saturday, cruising around Brooklyn.
During the subway ride out there, Carol told me a very sad ceviche story. She and some friends had gone out to dinner earlier that week at a fairly well respected restaurant in the city. Based on the recommendation of the waiter, she opted for the Ceviche- Sea Bass I think it was… She described it as lackluster and disappointing. No chunks of fish, just shredded bits, and just.. well… eh. Which, naturally, got me to thinking.

The first time I had ceviche was in 1981, when I was 17 and a Freshman in college. During Winter break my Father and I loaded up his Chevy Van and drove from San Francisco, down the Baja, to La Paz. From there we took a ferry to Puerto Vallarta, where I spent another week, and he the rest of the cold winter months. I’ve not been down those roads since, but in those days it was pretty desolate and rough. Miles of scrub and cactus with the occasional oasis of a gas station or hotel-motel.

My Father, known to be a character, packed a case of Freixinet sparkling wine in the back of the van, along with our clothes, items he needed for this 2 months stay, and a mattress that lined the floor. The drive down took a few days, and in exchange for one of those matt black bottles of wine, he would convince a lowly hotel night clerk to let us stay overnight in the parking lot- where we would proceed to sleep out in the back of the van. The rest of the wine, by the way, would be used to seduce and dazzle pretty, young “Chulitas” in Puerto Vallarta to go out dancing with him. As I said, Dad was a character.

Along the drive down the Baja there would be hotels and resorts at the end of long, obscure dirt roads. Tiny rough signs would mark the main highway, with no accommodations in sight. A mile or two later, bumping over stones and maneuvering ruts, we would come upon a pretty place, nested along a river, lush with foliage nourished by the water.
It was at a place like this, which couldn’t help but feel magical, that I had ceviche for the first time. We sat outside on a porch that hung out over a swift moving river, under the cool of the trees and eaves, and in a rough, handmade terra-cotta bowl was the most delicious lime soaked fish. An oddity and a delight.
Typically ceviche is made with onions and cilantro. Sometimes you find it with tomato more akin to a citrusy salsa with fish. I am a huge fan of it all- but this version, for those a little jaded, may spark a little magic again.
My wish was to create something that would put a smile back on Carol’s face. Mildly sweet honeydew melon is balanced with cool cucumber, crunchy jicama and laced with mint. I put just a little jalapeño into my dressing. I like the sweet and hot combination, and just a touch of pepper gives it a nice little snap. 
This is a different taste profile than most would be used to. It’s so delightful and fresh tasting. I hope you give it a try.
Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint
serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a meal

1# fresh white fish fillets, sliced into 1″ pieces
.5 c lemon juice
1t salt

2T fresh lime juice
1T fresh orange juice
1T peanut oil
1 clove minced garlic
1T minced jalapeno

2c diced honeydew melon
1c diced and seeded cucumber
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1c jicama, julienne
4T fresh mint leaves, torn
Ripe avocado slices for serving

Combine fish, lemon juice and salt in a bowl and toss to combine. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

In a small bowl combine the lime and orange juices, oil, garlic and jalapeno and set aside.

In larger bowl combine the melon, cucumber, jicama, scallions and mint leaves. 

Drain the juices from the fish and discard. Add to the melon bowl and add the dressing. Gently toss.

Serve with avocado.


Grilled Baby Zucchini and Potato Tart

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As many of you know, I am working through the final semesters of my Master’s degree. I am a proud student at Teachers College, Columbia University-and will graduate with a Masters in Nutrition and Exercise Physiology. It’s been a ridiculously long road (6 years already?), but one I truly enjoy. I am a bit of a science geek, so the combination of food and science is a natural pairing. I will share with you though, when I was interviewing for acceptance into the program, I asked if they might tar and feather me. At the time I was a full time wedding cake baker and a certified Sommelier. Thankfully they have not, and I do like to believe that my love of food and cooking adds another dimension to my studies.

We now have come to the end of the semester and this week is finals week. All projects are coming due, and just like I did during my undergraduate work, I find myself in the classic mode: sweats, plates and cups stacked on my desk, coffee but no milk, and a vague recollection of what fresh air and sun are like.

After an hour or two of compiling research, my brain starts to get sluggish. So, I naturally up myself from my desk and toddle into the kitchen. This was a little beauty I came up with during one such refresher moments, a healthy and hearty frittata like tart.
A layer of reduced fat cheddar and potatoes, grilled zucchini and grilled onions all coddled in a eggy mix. I adjusted the egg ratio to include more egg whites, which, in addition to boosting the protein, was the surprising bonus of a fluffier than usual tart. What’s also fantastic about this dish is it reheats beautifully- so one dish, many meals. I just add a green salad on the side, and my life is complete, and now, so is my semester.
Grilled Zucchini and Potato Tart
serves 6
 
3 medium/small potatoes, peeled and sliced into .25″ rounds
7-8 baby zucchini, sliced longways
4 slices of red onion
4 large eggs
3 egg whites
1c reduced fat milk
2c grated reduced fat sharp cheddar, grated
2 cloves garlic
1 small yellow onion, minced
small bunch of fresh oregano
 
Preheat oven to 350˚ and grease a  7″x12″ baking dish, or something comparable.
 
In a mixing bowl beat together the eggs and the milk. Add the garlic and let set it aside.
 
Using a stovetop grill pan, cook the zucchini for a minute or two, just to get a little char and grill marks on them. This adds a little umami accept and makes the dish so pretty.
 
Start layering the dish by first placing the potatoes as evenly as possible. Then sprinkle on the cheese and the oregano. I tossed on a pinch of salt and pepper here too.
 
Then carefully pour the eggy mixture over the top. Arrange the zucchini and the onions as you like. Place the dish onto a baking sheet and into the oven she goes.
 
Test after 45 minutes for doneness, but it should take closer to an hour. The eggs should be set and the dish a pretty golden brown.