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Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint

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Ceviche has never been lacking in descriptives such as “light” or “delicate” but this version is so refreshing it will surprise you.

I spent some time with a good friend of mine Carol on Saturday, cruising around Brooklyn.
During the subway ride out there, Carol told me a very sad ceviche story. She and some friends had gone out to dinner earlier that week at a fairly well respected restaurant in the city. Based on the recommendation of the waiter, she opted for the Ceviche- Sea Bass I think it was… She described it as lackluster and disappointing. No chunks of fish, just shredded bits, and just.. well… eh. Which, naturally, got me to thinking.

The first time I had ceviche was in 1981, when I was 17 and a Freshman in college. During Winter break my Father and I loaded up his Chevy Van and drove from San Francisco, down the Baja, to La Paz. From there we took a ferry to Puerto Vallarta, where I spent another week, and he the rest of the cold winter months. I’ve not been down those roads since, but in those days it was pretty desolate and rough. Miles of scrub and cactus with the occasional oasis of a gas station or hotel-motel.

My Father, known to be a character, packed a case of Freixinet sparkling wine in the back of the van, along with our clothes, items he needed for this 2 months stay, and a mattress that lined the floor. The drive down took a few days, and in exchange for one of those matt black bottles of wine, he would convince a lowly hotel night clerk to let us stay overnight in the parking lot- where we would proceed to sleep out in the back of the van. The rest of the wine, by the way, would be used to seduce and dazzle pretty, young “Chulitas” in Puerto Vallarta to go out dancing with him. As I said, Dad was a character.

Along the drive down the Baja there would be hotels and resorts at the end of long, obscure dirt roads. Tiny rough signs would mark the main highway, with no accommodations in sight. A mile or two later, bumping over stones and maneuvering ruts, we would come upon a pretty place, nested along a river, lush with foliage nourished by the water.
It was at a place like this, which couldn’t help but feel magical, that I had ceviche for the first time. We sat outside on a porch that hung out over a swift moving river, under the cool of the trees and eaves, and in a rough, handmade terra-cotta bowl was the most delicious lime soaked fish. An oddity and a delight.
Typically ceviche is made with onions and cilantro. Sometimes you find it with tomato more akin to a citrusy salsa with fish. I am a huge fan of it all- but this version, for those a little jaded, may spark a little magic again.
My wish was to create something that would put a smile back on Carol’s face. Mildly sweet honeydew melon is balanced with cool cucumber, crunchy jicama and laced with mint. I put just a little jalapeño into my dressing. I like the sweet and hot combination, and just a touch of pepper gives it a nice little snap. 
This is a different taste profile than most would be used to. It’s so delightful and fresh tasting. I hope you give it a try.
Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint
serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a meal

1# fresh white fish fillets, sliced into 1″ pieces
.5 c lemon juice
1t salt

2T fresh lime juice
1T fresh orange juice
1T peanut oil
1 clove minced garlic
1T minced jalapeno

2c diced honeydew melon
1c diced and seeded cucumber
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1c jicama, julienne
4T fresh mint leaves, torn
Ripe avocado slices for serving

Combine fish, lemon juice and salt in a bowl and toss to combine. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

In a small bowl combine the lime and orange juices, oil, garlic and jalapeno and set aside.

In larger bowl combine the melon, cucumber, jicama, scallions and mint leaves. 

Drain the juices from the fish and discard. Add to the melon bowl and add the dressing. Gently toss.

Serve with avocado.


Grilled Baby Zucchini and Potato Tart

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As many of you know, I am working through the final semesters of my Master’s degree. I am a proud student at Teachers College, Columbia University-and will graduate with a Masters in Nutrition and Exercise Physiology. It’s been a ridiculously long road (6 years already?), but one I truly enjoy. I am a bit of a science geek, so the combination of food and science is a natural pairing. I will share with you though, when I was interviewing for acceptance into the program, I asked if they might tar and feather me. At the time I was a full time wedding cake baker and a certified Sommelier. Thankfully they have not, and I do like to believe that my love of food and cooking adds another dimension to my studies.

We now have come to the end of the semester and this week is finals week. All projects are coming due, and just like I did during my undergraduate work, I find myself in the classic mode: sweats, plates and cups stacked on my desk, coffee but no milk, and a vague recollection of what fresh air and sun are like.

After an hour or two of compiling research, my brain starts to get sluggish. So, I naturally up myself from my desk and toddle into the kitchen. This was a little beauty I came up with during one such refresher moments, a healthy and hearty frittata like tart.
A layer of reduced fat cheddar and potatoes, grilled zucchini and grilled onions all coddled in a eggy mix. I adjusted the egg ratio to include more egg whites, which, in addition to boosting the protein, was the surprising bonus of a fluffier than usual tart. What’s also fantastic about this dish is it reheats beautifully- so one dish, many meals. I just add a green salad on the side, and my life is complete, and now, so is my semester.
Grilled Zucchini and Potato Tart
serves 6
 
3 medium/small potatoes, peeled and sliced into .25″ rounds
7-8 baby zucchini, sliced longways
4 slices of red onion
4 large eggs
3 egg whites
1c reduced fat milk
2c grated reduced fat sharp cheddar, grated
2 cloves garlic
1 small yellow onion, minced
small bunch of fresh oregano
 
Preheat oven to 350˚ and grease a  7″x12″ baking dish, or something comparable.
 
In a mixing bowl beat together the eggs and the milk. Add the garlic and let set it aside.
 
Using a stovetop grill pan, cook the zucchini for a minute or two, just to get a little char and grill marks on them. This adds a little umami accept and makes the dish so pretty.
 
Start layering the dish by first placing the potatoes as evenly as possible. Then sprinkle on the cheese and the oregano. I tossed on a pinch of salt and pepper here too.
 
Then carefully pour the eggy mixture over the top. Arrange the zucchini and the onions as you like. Place the dish onto a baking sheet and into the oven she goes.
 
Test after 45 minutes for doneness, but it should take closer to an hour. The eggs should be set and the dish a pretty golden brown.
 
 
 

Roasted Lamb With Balsamic Vinegar and Red Wine Jus

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I am so happy to share with you another of my spoils from my visit to Gosling Pond B&B last weekend.

Late Saturday afternoon Kate brought me over to Fairy Tale Farm to meet her friend Jen. Nestled in the hills is the sweetest farm one could imagine. In a sloped and rolling yard, that is bordered by a stone wall (that Jen built herself) roams chickens, rooster, peacocks, guinea fowl and a very friendly turkey named Frank. In fact, he quite startled me by walking right up to me. He’s got quite the plumage reminiscent of an Indian headdress, and I couldn’t help but think of him as being on constant parade. Also on the farm there is Sally the goat, Biggie the boar (sacked out and snoring in his stall), and a horse who’s name I didn’t catch.

When we first arrived the peacock was displaying his gorgeous tail, while the peahen was on the other side of the wall peeking over. The greens and blues of his feathers were stunning even on that overcast afternoon.

In addition to growing and selling gorgeous produce in the warmer months, Jen also sells gorgeous eggs from her chickens. On the farm are several varieties of hens, and in the chick pen, were a new batch of even more varieties. The different breeds lay different colored eggs, enabling Jen to put together a stunning pastel array into her dozens.

It’s these lovely eggs that Kate provides to her guests each morning. Pretty bowls of pale blues, greens and tan eggs for breakfast. I’ve got a nice batch of those too- so look for a post (or two) soon using those.

But Jen doesn’t raise lamb, this meat comes from another friend’s farm down the road that Jen had got in trade. During our conversation about the politics of sustainable farming and the state of the farming community in their area, the subject came up that I loved lamb. Jen jumped up and pulled this piece out of the freezer for me and generously offered it as a gift. I couldn’t have been more thrilled.

This is a super simple recipe that allowed the flavor of the meat to shine. This lamb is free roaming and super tender, and only a slight hint of gaminess. As an aside, I happen to love gamey lamb, but most in these parts prefer a neutral taste. As a result, much lamb is cultivated to appeal to that profile. As lamb goes, this was spectacular.
I made a quick warm fingerling potato with pesto for the side and washed it all down with a Chianti. As I sat at my table, looking out over my NYC view, I could only dream of going back up to see Kate when the fields are producing to gather more delights for my kitchen, and support all the farmers, to whom we all should be grateful.
Roasted Lamb with Balsamic Vinegar and Red Wine Jus
 
1 lamb roast (mine was a baby .75#)
cracked fresh black pepper and salt
scattering of garlic cloves- left in skins
healthy splash of balsamic vinegar
healthier splash of red wine
 
Sorry for the vague amounts, but this really needs to be done to taste.
 
Preheat oven to 425˚
 
Crack pepper onto a cutting board and add salt. Roll the meat in the mixture to coat.
 
In a pan you can place in the oven, warm some oil until almost smoking.
 
Add the meat and sear on all sides. There are differing opinions on this step. There is the opinion that searing retains the juiciness of the meat, not sure if that’s true or not, but I like the umami taste of seared meat.
 
Toss the garlic cloves into the pan and toss the whole thing into the oven. I used 4 cloves for this dish, but the more the merrier. If you don’t use them for this sauce, roasted garlic is great to just have on hand.
 
Roast for approx 12mins/pound for medium rare. I test by touch. When poked there should be some springiness to the meat but not bouncy. This is a practiced skill, my advice is to practice often.
 
When done remove the meat from the pan and set aside to rest while you make the pan sauce.
 
Deglaze the pan with some red wine, I probably used about a 2/3 cup. Scrape all the bits off the bottom. Squeeze the garlic out of the papers and mash into a paste. Add it to the sauce. Allow this to simmer for a minute or two.
 
Then add in the vinegar. I used about 3T and tasted it for balance. You want some acidity for brightness, but not to the point of making your nose twitch.
 
Allow the sauce to reduce for a few minutes and serve hot over slices of the lamb.