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cheese

Raclette: I heart Stinky Cheese!

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The first time I had raclette was at the home of my friends Jeff and Jodie Morgan years ago when they lived out on the North Fork of Long Island. Jeff was a musician then that was just breaking into the wine business. Jody was a homemaker and we were having children in tandem and sharing the ins and out of potty training methodology. Jeff then went on to write about wine for the Wine Spectator and moved the family out to California and was the West Coast Editor for a long time. He is now the owner of Covenant Wines making kosher wines that are sure to be superb. There was a rose too, but I’m not up to date on that.

Jeff had lived in France at some point and the influence permeated their lifestyle. Lazy Sunday afternoons we played Jacques a dit… (Simon says) on the lawn and ate sardines stuffed with herbs right off the grill. Together Jeff and Jody were great cooks and great hosts and it was always delightful spending time with them. I pretty much always came away learning something new, the least of which was how to enjoy raclette.

The name Raclette comes from the French racler-to scrape. Traditionally a large wheel of this pungent semi soft cheese is held to the wood burning fire and the melted cheese scraped onto the waiting plate. This luscious cheese is served with boiled potatoes and cornichons or other pickled vegetables. Cured meats are also often served, but I never had it that way. One is tempted to compare this to fondue, but I would not make the comparison- they are nothing alike.

I cannot begin to tell you the blissful taste of the earthy pungent cheese with the doughy potato and the snap of the pickle. It was one of those taste moments that shock the senses into a different echelon. The reason is that it doesn’t sound all that amazing, but together it is spectacular.

Being a little remiss of a wood burning fireplace in Manhattan, I melt my cheese right onto plates that I put into a warm oven. It only takes a few minutes to melt the cheese and the hot plate maintains the melty loveliness during consumption. Just take care to handle the plate and mind the table top and not burn yourself or the veneer. There are table top grills that are the modern convenience of the day, but I’ve not tried them and prefer this basic and homey method.

This is hearty Winter fare and great to serve among a small group with one large plate in the middle of the table. My preferred wine of choice with Raclette is a flowery Reisling and the one time an off dry is enjoyable, or if you’re not a Reisling fan (and you will be once you have a good one), an aromatic Viognier or Pinot Gris is also delightful.

Pan Roasted Lemon Rosemary Chicken with Smoked Cheddar Grits

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As the Fall days progress into increasing darkness and cool air I have a natural tendency to lean toward warmer flavors and comfort foods. The color and texture of foods change, the farmer’s market is filled with deeper richer color and tastes. Whenever I get a whiff of the piney perfume of rosemary it moves me to think of cozy sweaters and turning on stoves. Into the kitchen, to make a comforting culinary cocoon.
Pan chicken is a classic. The floured breast gives up enough juice to create a baseline to make a lemony rosemary sauce. Silky from the thickening flour left on the bottom of the pan, rounded out by a lump of butter- the rosemary is the mid tone with it’s harmonious partner, garlic, and at the top, the bright zing of lemon.
All it needed is a creamy pairing of grits that is laced with some healthy chunks of smoked cheddar. Polenta here would be fine, but to my taste just a tad too corny. The grits are more neutral and I make them to the creamier side. The gooey mush with the earthy tones of the cheddar lend a beautiful base line to this harmony.
 
Smoked Cheddar Grits
 
makes 4 servings
 
3.75 c chicken broth
1c instant grits
healthy pinch of salt
6oz of smoked cheddar cut into small chunks
 
In a medium large heavy saucepan warm the grits to boiling. 
 
While agitating the water add the grits and stir to smoothness and reduce the heat. Cover the pan and allow the grits to swell and thicken for about 8 mins. Stirring occasionally.
 
The grits should not be as thick as oatmeal coming out the pot. They will set as they cool, so if necessary add some additional chicken broth to create a thinner mush.
 
Keep the grits warm while you prepare the chicken.
 
Just before serving toss in the cheese and give it a gentle stir. Let it sit for a minute to melt the cheese. I like to find pockets of melty cheese in my grits so I don’t mix them again after this.
 
Lemon Rosemary Chicken
serves 4
 
4 large chicken breasts-trimmed and pounded to an even thickness
a few T of AP flour seasoned with Salt and Pepper
2T butter
1 clove crushed minced garlic
.5 c white wine
.5 c chicken stock
2T fresh rosemary rough chopped
Juice and grated rind of one good lemon
 
Place the flour mixture on a plate and dredge the chicken on both sides, giving it a healthy coating
 
In a large frying pan melt the butter and add the garlic. Sautee gently for a few minutes to release the flavor of the garlic into the butter taking care not to toast it.
 
Add the chicken and cooking on the first side ~5 minutes- turning once and cooking for another ~3 until done. Please adjust cooking times to your heat level and thickness of breast.
 
Remove the chicken and place on a side plate then cover to keep warm while preparing the sauce.
 
In the pan, over medium high heat, pour in the wine and deglaze the pan. The flour that is left behind will create a thick lumpy sauce. Slowly add the chicken stock while continually stirring the sauce smooth. 
 
Add the rosemary and allow the sauce to gently simmer for a few minutes to cook out the flour and meld the flavors.
 
Right before serving stir in the lemon rind and juice. You can add the chicken back into the pan to coat the chicken with the sauce and make it warmer, or simply spoon the sauce over the breasts. 
 
Be sure to taste the sauce when it is done to balance out the flavors. Feel free to add a bit more butter or seasoning if you feel it needs it.
 
 
 
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To my understanding leftover grits are not to be done, but I wouldn’t let any of it go to waste. The next morning I reheated the grits in a pan with a little milk to bring back the creaminess. To go along with it poached eggs with runny centers were perfection.
 
 

Easy Entertaining: Feta spread with Minted Tomato Salad

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Lazy Sunday afternoons are my favorite time to gather people together. I have some sweet memories of when I was a kid and my parents would sometimes pack up my brother and me and head over to a friends house. My Father was in the antique business for the better part of my growing up, and a lot of his friends were in the business as well. In those days the wives were housewives and stayed home and watched Julia Child in the afternoon and then prepared elaborate meals for the evening. Entertaining was a wife’s domain and her pride. Putting out a luscious spread was their art and career. Those were the type of homes that we would visit.
You could count on walking into homes that smelled of good coffee, where The New York Times was strewn about, and opera or classical music played in the background. On the cocktail table would be delights, such as cheeses or pastries, to nibble on while the grown ups chatted. I’ve always loved stinky cheeses and crusty breads, and to lay on couches and eavesdrop on my Father’s business chats with his friends was heaven. I’ve always loved business talk and I learned quite a bit from nestling in the corner of that couch while the other kids ran around the yard. I could play at home all I wanted, but I loved the language and the calculations and the camaraderie that the adults shared.
Of course this would later manifest in my going into my own businesses, and as a result it felt as natural as falling off a log.
Though when it comes to entertaining, I have learned that the less fussing the better. I mean, sure, fuss away before guests arrive, but once the gathering has begun, I like to visit and relax. I often keep things at the ready too. To look in my cupboard or freezer you would think that I had a family of 8 (and don’t think I haven’t heard a word or two about it), but at the drop of a hat, I can pull out this and that and make a meal or snack- AND make Julia proud.
One quick and wonderful snack is this one above, which is also one of those delightful combinations that is greater than the sum of it’s parts. The spread is feta cheese that is whipped into submission with a little milk and garlic then laced with the best olive oil in the house. The tomatoes are simply tossed with a little oil and vinegar, but it’s the fresh hit of mint that sets this all into balance. If tomatoes are not available, cucumbers or some other juicy vegetable can work to offset the saltiness of the feta.
Lastly, flat bread is brushed with some oil and toasted. This really brings this all to life. A crunchy bread giving way to a soft inside is the perfect platform for this dish. Pile up some prosciutto to add to the party and then sit back and relax.