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fish

Tuna Tartare on Grilled Potato Slices

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While I was downtown in Chinatown searching for langon fruits, I spied me some beautiful Tuna. Whenever I see really good quality Tuna I hate the thought of cooking it. It’s just to gorgeous for that. What the fish monger hated even more was my instruction of the exact piece that I wanted. I don’t like to be a pain….nah, not true, I can be a nudge. I figure Italian grandmothers can get away with it, why not a Latina/Irishwoman?? Trust me though, I let that guy know that I really appreciated his efforts. In the end everyone was happy.

While stumbling around I also came across some fresh, tight Thai Chilies. You may see them in the market as more stores are starting to carry them. They are small, slim and green, and pack a smart punch that can really sting if you’re not careful. I, as you know, love them. Feel free to switch out to jalepenos of a lesser quantity if your not a heat freak like me, or eliminate altogether. I would add a good grind of black pepper at least though…

So once back in my kitchen with the spoils of my excursion, I sliced up a few potatoes as thin as I could get them, oiled them, and threw them on my grill pan. While the potatoes softened and charred, I pulled together the tartare.

I think tartare should be made a la minute, meaning not in advance. Though perfectly good the next day, I prefer it fresh, before the lime juice has a chance to do too much work on that beautiful tuna, but if you’re making a batch for a get together, go ahead and make it beforehand- just keep it cold, cold, cold.

So here you have it. My late afternoon lunch.

I need to head downtown more often…

Tuna Tartare on Grilled Potato Slices
serves 4
 
4 potatoes, scrubbed and sliced by hand as thinly as possible
1.25# of fresh sushi grade tuna
3T toasted sesame oil
.25 c cilantro
1 juicy thai chili, minced finely
zest and juice from 3 limes
3T minced red onion
pinch of salt
 
Heat grill pan to high. Brush potato slices with oil and grill on one side until translucent  then flip to second side. Cook in batches until all are done and arrange on plates.
 
In medium size bowl combine all the ingredients except the tuna. Taste for acid and chili balance. 
 
I tossed my tuna into the freezer as I was starting the potatoes so that I can get neater slices from the cold fish. Do no freeze completely though.
 
Dice the tuna into small pieces, then toss the lot into the dressing. Give it all a thorough coating and let rest for just a minute or two. I taste again for flavor balance. 
 
Divide the tuna between the plates and enjoy!

Smokey Cockles with Spaghetti

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There are sounds of the summer that I really love, like the tinkling of ice in a cocktail glass, or the plinky tune of the ice cream truck through the screened window- and the money sound of cockle shells in a bowl.
It was the sound of this dish that had me standing eagerly at the fishmongers counter. Crazy eh? but why not? I love making this dish. It takes no time at all and the result is so satisfying. For those that are carb phobic I use Barilla’s Plus pasta. It’s a dried pasta with extra protein. I highly recommend it. The tooth on the pasta is closer to typical pasta and not the mealy bite of whole wheat varieties. If you don’t have it in your local market you can order it here. For those who need to keep their glycemic index low this is a way to have your pasta and maintain your balance.
But I digress…smokey bacon widens the depth of these flavors. Into the base broth, along with a hearty splash of Sauvignon Blanc, I slipped in two bay leaves from the plant my Mother gave me earlier this season. She has a bay plant that resembles Jack’s beanstalk in her living room. I was in such awe of it that Mom got me one of my own. My baby is working it’s way up, already gaining about 3 inches since I set it into my “garden window” and is now about 8″ tall. Fresh bay leaves are a real treat. Go get a bay plant for yourself and get one for a friend, you’ll both be all smiles.

I have the immense pleasure of a sweeping view of the Hudson River facing the setting sun. With the setting sun mellowing the colors of the day I sit in my window watching boats ease their way up and down the river. It may not be the dock on the bay that I really crave, but for city life I feel blessed to live in. More of the Sauvignon Blanc, famous for its vegetal and sprightly flavor, accompanied my meal. Nothing beats this combination- and with it came another wonderful summer sound- the slurp of sucking the cockles from their beautiful shells and the clink of the discarded shells falling into the bowl.

Smokey Cockles with Spaghetti
serves two
 
1.5# fresh cockles, scrubbed clean- discarding any that remain open
4 strips of smoked bacon
2 cloves crushed garlic
.5 c dry white wine
2 bay leaves
{optional pinch of red pepper}
 
2oz dried pasta- cooked al dente and tossed with 1T olive oil
 
 
In a large pot over medium heat gently sautee bacon, rendering the fat. 
 
Add in garlic and bay leaves and sautee until garlic have given up it’s fragrance.
 
Carefully add in the wine and gently simmer to meld the flavors and draw out the bay.
 
Toss in the scrubbed cockles and cover the pot with a lid.
 
Let the cockles steam for about 5 mins. They are done when the shells are completely open.
 
Do not add salt until after you’ve tasted the broth. The cockles give up their briny juice and usually that is more than enough salt.
 
Divide the pasta between two bowls and then the cockles, strain the broth to remove and grit and then pour over the two bowls.
 
 
Enjoy!
 
 
 
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Thank you for coming by and reading my recipes.
I would love to hear how you are sharing with your friends, or any other stories you want to share with me.
If you have any questions or just want to say Hi, just drop me a note. I look forward to it.
 
astackofdishes@gmail.com
 

Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint

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Ceviche has never been lacking in descriptives such as “light” or “delicate” but this version is so refreshing it will surprise you.

I spent some time with a good friend of mine Carol on Saturday, cruising around Brooklyn.
During the subway ride out there, Carol told me a very sad ceviche story. She and some friends had gone out to dinner earlier that week at a fairly well respected restaurant in the city. Based on the recommendation of the waiter, she opted for the Ceviche- Sea Bass I think it was… She described it as lackluster and disappointing. No chunks of fish, just shredded bits, and just.. well… eh. Which, naturally, got me to thinking.

The first time I had ceviche was in 1981, when I was 17 and a Freshman in college. During Winter break my Father and I loaded up his Chevy Van and drove from San Francisco, down the Baja, to La Paz. From there we took a ferry to Puerto Vallarta, where I spent another week, and he the rest of the cold winter months. I’ve not been down those roads since, but in those days it was pretty desolate and rough. Miles of scrub and cactus with the occasional oasis of a gas station or hotel-motel.

My Father, known to be a character, packed a case of Freixinet sparkling wine in the back of the van, along with our clothes, items he needed for this 2 months stay, and a mattress that lined the floor. The drive down took a few days, and in exchange for one of those matt black bottles of wine, he would convince a lowly hotel night clerk to let us stay overnight in the parking lot- where we would proceed to sleep out in the back of the van. The rest of the wine, by the way, would be used to seduce and dazzle pretty, young “Chulitas” in Puerto Vallarta to go out dancing with him. As I said, Dad was a character.

Along the drive down the Baja there would be hotels and resorts at the end of long, obscure dirt roads. Tiny rough signs would mark the main highway, with no accommodations in sight. A mile or two later, bumping over stones and maneuvering ruts, we would come upon a pretty place, nested along a river, lush with foliage nourished by the water.
It was at a place like this, which couldn’t help but feel magical, that I had ceviche for the first time. We sat outside on a porch that hung out over a swift moving river, under the cool of the trees and eaves, and in a rough, handmade terra-cotta bowl was the most delicious lime soaked fish. An oddity and a delight.
Typically ceviche is made with onions and cilantro. Sometimes you find it with tomato more akin to a citrusy salsa with fish. I am a huge fan of it all- but this version, for those a little jaded, may spark a little magic again.
My wish was to create something that would put a smile back on Carol’s face. Mildly sweet honeydew melon is balanced with cool cucumber, crunchy jicama and laced with mint. I put just a little jalapeño into my dressing. I like the sweet and hot combination, and just a touch of pepper gives it a nice little snap. 
This is a different taste profile than most would be used to. It’s so delightful and fresh tasting. I hope you give it a try.
Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint
serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a meal

1# fresh white fish fillets, sliced into 1″ pieces
.5 c lemon juice
1t salt

2T fresh lime juice
1T fresh orange juice
1T peanut oil
1 clove minced garlic
1T minced jalapeno

2c diced honeydew melon
1c diced and seeded cucumber
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1c jicama, julienne
4T fresh mint leaves, torn
Ripe avocado slices for serving

Combine fish, lemon juice and salt in a bowl and toss to combine. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

In a small bowl combine the lime and orange juices, oil, garlic and jalapeno and set aside.

In larger bowl combine the melon, cucumber, jicama, scallions and mint leaves. 

Drain the juices from the fish and discard. Add to the melon bowl and add the dressing. Gently toss.

Serve with avocado.