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Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint

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Ceviche has never been lacking in descriptives such as “light” or “delicate” but this version is so refreshing it will surprise you.

I spent some time with a good friend of mine Carol on Saturday, cruising around Brooklyn.
During the subway ride out there, Carol told me a very sad ceviche story. She and some friends had gone out to dinner earlier that week at a fairly well respected restaurant in the city. Based on the recommendation of the waiter, she opted for the Ceviche- Sea Bass I think it was… She described it as lackluster and disappointing. No chunks of fish, just shredded bits, and just.. well… eh. Which, naturally, got me to thinking.

The first time I had ceviche was in 1981, when I was 17 and a Freshman in college. During Winter break my Father and I loaded up his Chevy Van and drove from San Francisco, down the Baja, to La Paz. From there we took a ferry to Puerto Vallarta, where I spent another week, and he the rest of the cold winter months. I’ve not been down those roads since, but in those days it was pretty desolate and rough. Miles of scrub and cactus with the occasional oasis of a gas station or hotel-motel.

My Father, known to be a character, packed a case of Freixinet sparkling wine in the back of the van, along with our clothes, items he needed for this 2 months stay, and a mattress that lined the floor. The drive down took a few days, and in exchange for one of those matt black bottles of wine, he would convince a lowly hotel night clerk to let us stay overnight in the parking lot- where we would proceed to sleep out in the back of the van. The rest of the wine, by the way, would be used to seduce and dazzle pretty, young “Chulitas” in Puerto Vallarta to go out dancing with him. As I said, Dad was a character.

Along the drive down the Baja there would be hotels and resorts at the end of long, obscure dirt roads. Tiny rough signs would mark the main highway, with no accommodations in sight. A mile or two later, bumping over stones and maneuvering ruts, we would come upon a pretty place, nested along a river, lush with foliage nourished by the water.
It was at a place like this, which couldn’t help but feel magical, that I had ceviche for the first time. We sat outside on a porch that hung out over a swift moving river, under the cool of the trees and eaves, and in a rough, handmade terra-cotta bowl was the most delicious lime soaked fish. An oddity and a delight.
Typically ceviche is made with onions and cilantro. Sometimes you find it with tomato more akin to a citrusy salsa with fish. I am a huge fan of it all- but this version, for those a little jaded, may spark a little magic again.
My wish was to create something that would put a smile back on Carol’s face. Mildly sweet honeydew melon is balanced with cool cucumber, crunchy jicama and laced with mint. I put just a little jalapeño into my dressing. I like the sweet and hot combination, and just a touch of pepper gives it a nice little snap. 
This is a different taste profile than most would be used to. It’s so delightful and fresh tasting. I hope you give it a try.
Ceviche with Honeydew, Jicama, Cucumber and Mint
serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a meal

1# fresh white fish fillets, sliced into 1″ pieces
.5 c lemon juice
1t salt

2T fresh lime juice
1T fresh orange juice
1T peanut oil
1 clove minced garlic
1T minced jalapeno

2c diced honeydew melon
1c diced and seeded cucumber
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1c jicama, julienne
4T fresh mint leaves, torn
Ripe avocado slices for serving

Combine fish, lemon juice and salt in a bowl and toss to combine. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

In a small bowl combine the lime and orange juices, oil, garlic and jalapeno and set aside.

In larger bowl combine the melon, cucumber, jicama, scallions and mint leaves. 

Drain the juices from the fish and discard. Add to the melon bowl and add the dressing. Gently toss.

Serve with avocado.


Fresh Goat Milk Ricotta Ruby Beet Salad

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Fresh made Goat Milk Ricotta with ruby beets and pistachios

A little disclosure is that I would really love to learn how to make cheese. It’s probably the mad scientist in me, but there is something about the alchemy of it all that is just fascinating. My friend Cathy Wheelbarrow-you may know her as Mrs. Wheelbarrow– taught just such a class this past weekend in DC.  Together this class made all of my favorites: Ricotta, creme fraiche, fresh chèvre and fresh mozzarella. Though aged cheeses are intriguing, a girl could keep herself pretty busy with these.
It’s no secret by now I can get into making ricotta at home. It’s pretty simple and I find it so remarkably rewarding. Though this past week I found myself wondering how goat milk ricotta would taste. Would the tang play though, or does it need aging?
This brought back to mind a trip that my family took one wintery weekend when I was a kid of about 9 or so. Some friends of the family had chosen to escape the corporate rat race and bought a goat farm up in Rheinbeck, New York. They lived in a rickety, drafty, old house warmed by wood stoves that was back into the woods down a winding country road. It was all so beautiful except for the frosty air that hit us when we climbed out from under piles of quilts the next morning. Shivering at the breakfast table all bleary eyed, we were given mugs of hot chocolate. In my house such things were for holidays and rarest of occasions, so this was a delight- until I took a sip. The taste was tart and sour and animal. Oh what a blow to my little girl expectations! When I pushed it away my Mother, in a sing songy voice said, “It’s fiiiiine, just go ahead and drink it petunia”- only later confessing it was made with milk from their goats.
So armed with this memory I decided to give it a try- and it turned out remarkably well. A little bit milder than I would have imagined, which turned out to be an asset. The result was a more delicate taste and an overall sense of lightness. The goat milk I had purchased from Whole Foods which came pasteurized and boxed. The next time I might venture down to the farmer’s market and try some fresh milk and compare the difference.
Fresh Goat Milk Ricotta and Ruby Beet Salad
 
1 qt goat milk
generous pinch of salt
2T fresh lemon juice
cheese cloth or a fine meshed strainer
 
roasted ruby beets, peeled
grated orange zest
fruity olive oil
chopped pistachios
S & P
 
 
Place the goat milk and salt in a heavy saucepan and gently bring to the boil.
 
Lower the heat and stir in the lemon juice. The curds will immediately begin to separate from the whey.
 
Gently simmer the ricotta for about 2 minutes, then strain though some cheese cloth or a fine meshed strainer. I have a yogurt strainer that I found somewhere that works like a charm. The whey is rich in nutrients and great tossed into a soup, if you’re compelled to do such things.
 
The longer the curds sit the dryer they will be, so you should go by personal preference on this. I let mine sit for about 3 minutes before transferring it into a container to store.
 
Let the curds come to room temperature on the counter and then store in the fridge. 
 
Use within the week.
The Ruby Beet salad is a simple combination of all the above listed ingredients. Drizzle the olive oil over with a nice pinch of coarse salt and a generous grind of black pepper.
 

Pan Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Seeds

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Happy First Day of Spring!! So you’re probably wondering why I made butternut squash- such a Fall/Wintery thing, to eat on what has turned out to be one of the most beautiful days yet. Well I guess because I never felt that Winter really arrived and I still had time to get around to making some nutty squash. When I saw the calendar this morning I said, Wait! Wait! *sigh*

I’ve been having a hankering for squash the last week or so and just hadn’t gotten to it. Until now. So there.

But here is my spin- remember back in January when you sternly looked yourself in the mirror and said- Yes! This year I am going to eat healthier and lose a few? Well, consider this a new first, and this dish is a fantastic place to start.

I diced up a half a squash (loving that they sell them peeled and in halves around here) and gave it a quick, high heat sauté with a nice hunk of garlic and then tossed it all with some pepitas and black sesame seeds.

I’ve got a little trick for making the cubes tender without the mush. I first put a nice sear on the squash and then right into the pan tossed in a few tablespoons of water and covered the pan with a lid. The steam cooked the squash through and brought out the nutty buttery taste. After the water evaporated just another minute directly on the heat and I was good to go.

Originally I made a thyme balsamic molasses to go with it, but really just liked the straightforward earthy taste of the squash.

Serve this dish warm over tender Bibb lettuce leaves and enjoy, and be content that you’ve done yourself some good.

Pan Roasted Butternut Squash Salad with Seeds
serves 4 as a main salad or 6-8 as a side dish
 
.5 med/large butternut squash, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
2T olive oil
1T black sesame seeds
small handful of pepitas, roasted and unsalted
S & P
Whole Bibb lettuce leaves from 1 head, cleaned and dried




In large frying pan heat oil on medium high. 


Add garlic and sautee for 2 minutes to release the flavor into the oil. Take care not to burn or brown the garlic.


Toss in the squash and stir to coat with oil and garlic. Then let it sit for 2-3 mins to get a sear on the cubes.


Toss and let cook another 2-3 mins as before.


Add 2T of water into pan and cover with lid. It will sputter and steam, which is what you want.


After about a minute remove lid and allow any remaining water to cook off. Then gently toss the squash for a few more seconds before serving.


Spoon warm squash over the lettuce leaves and sprinkle with black sesame seeds and pepitas.


Season to taste with S & P